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Stuart Ablett's Gixxer Page

The GSXR is For Sale!  SOLD!!

Update, the Rebirth of the Old Nail!!

Go see page two of the GSXR!

Scans of the Service Manual, Carb Rebuilding

Scan of the Parts Catalog Exploded view of the Clutch

Head Scans

Super Tune the GSXR 750 Info!!

Here are some recent pictures taken this at the end of June 2002 just before I shipped the bike to the USA where is will take up a new career in racing the Dinosaur class in California.


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I want to welcome all of you who have stopped by for a look at what is going on with my Gixxer.

A little History. I have been riding bikes from about the time I was 8 years old, back in Canada. It was mainly off-road, of course. When I was about 20 I bought my first "BIG" bike in 1984, an 83 Suzuki GS 750 EF. I had it for about two years and then I traded up to an 1986 GSXR 750, or Gixxer. I had it for about two years, and then for various (stupid) reasons I decided to sell it (sigh). Fast forward, the year 2000. I now live in Japan (please see About Us), and one day a fellow Canadian, Marc, walks in the shop in bike gear, we get to talking and he is from the same part of the world that I am, he even went to school with some distant relatives of mine. When I ask what he is riding, he tells me a GSXR. I stroll across the street to find that it is an old GSXR, almost exactly like the one I used to have. Now skip ahead a few more months, and Marc finds himself at the the Tokyo Dome Bike swap. There he finds a 1997  TL1000S, with about 300 km on it and at an good price. It seems the guy bought the bike, rode it a few time, and then life got busy, and he decide to sell it, problem was no one would believe him, on the mileage. Marc had friend Keith look at it and it all seemed OK. Now Marc has two sport bikes parked in front of his apartment building, the landlord is pissed, parking space is a premium in Tokyo, even for bikes. Now Marc need to get rid of the Gixxer. He comes buy the shop for some beer and he tell this story to my wife Emiko, she says "Maybe Stuart wants it". Is the Pope catholic? 

About the bike, it is a 1985 Suzuki GSXR 750 Model # GR71F.

Yoshimura 4 into 1 header, and a Yoshimura cyclone can.
One tooth down up front, and two teeth up on the back sprocket.
K&N individual pod filters.

I will keep this as a running commentary, and if there is something about the bike you'd like to know, drop me a line at mailto:info@masutoh.com


August 2000
I am currently in the process of rebuilding my clutch. I have finally sussed the fuel shortage problem, and now with a lots of gas getting to the engine the clutch has started to slip even more than it did be fore. If I am in second gear, for example, and I crack the throttle open, when the bike hits about 8,000 rpm it revs to 11,000, with no noticeable acceleration, yes time for a rebuild. I used to replace clutches on my dirt bikes, so I figured it would not be so different. It wasn't, no problem at all. I decided to take some pictures and document this, one because with the new technology I can, and two, I hope that someone who is contemplating this will be helped by my little page here. 


Ok, now I'm ready to take apart the clutch, and see why it is slipping so bad.

Cover is off, everything looks clean and well oiled, I run 100% synthetic oil.

Springs and pressure plate off, now comes the good stuff.

Friction and steel plates on the way out.

Hard to see, but the inner basket was very worn, and had some major ruts in it at the least needs to be touched up with a file. I held it using the special tool, (two chunks of steel with a few holes drilled in them, a nut an boot too), you need a 27 mm socket to take of the inner basket.

Hard to see, but trust me it is worn.

Perfect, no, but a heck of a lot better. If you are to do this, it is essential that you have some chalk to load you file with, because this aluminum clogs the file up in one or two strokes with out it. A card file, or at least a good stiff wire bristle brush is also needed to clean the file.

Found out that they want a few hundred dollars, or more for a new inner basket. I Clamped it in my wood working vice, with wood to protect it, and got to work with a sharp file, an hour later, and you can see the results.

The outer basket was just fine, I pulled it and checked the spacer, thrust washer, and needle bearing, as well as the shaft, all were in good shape.

The steel plates, were really warped, they were also very blue, with some obvious hard spots on them. The friction plates were fine, no need to replace. The springs were just marginal, their limit is 34 mm, and they were about 34.1 mm, so I ordered them too. I also got a new gasket, and a new lock washer for the inner basket. With the new steel plates, and the inner basket cleaned up, I think the bike will run like a scaled dog!

Now I am waiting for the parts




August 30, Update
So I have the clutch together, but now the clutch won't disengage. It seems the master cylinder for the clutch is in need of a rebuild. The inside of the relief cylinder, the one that disengages the clutch, is a bit spotty too, so I'll replace it as well.
When I pulled the cover off that holds the relief cylinder I could not believe the amount of oil and dirt there, it seems the seal around the clutch pushrod has given up, and oil, lots of it, was coming out, another part on order. 

Today I'm going to take apart the back brake, as it is making a "zzzzzzz" noise (oh what a joy trying to describe bike sounds) when you really hit the back brake hard. There   is plenty of pad left, and the disc is OK smooth, and still thick enough, just going to pull the caliper and see what's up.

Wish me luck, and maybe I can get out and RIDE this bike, instead of just wrenching it!




September 1st, Update
The bike has been busting my balls, but I finally got it sussed (G*d I hope), but have to wait for parts, earliest delivery is Saturday noon, so to put it all together by Sunday morning, well I doubt it. Saturday is a busy day at the shop, plus to put all of these parts together and then go for a long ride is not prudent IMHO, not that I doubt my mechanical skills (ha!) but just to many things to go wrong, so I would rather stay close to home on the first ride.

The (fluid) clutch system was giving me fits, I put in a new relief cylinder on the bottom, the one that moves the clutch push rod, thus disengaging the clutch, and still it would not disengage the clutch. I then rebuilt the clutch master cylinder, but to no avail. I had to file the inner basket a lot to get it smooth again, and in a conversation with my friend Marc, he suggested that, as a possible problem. It wasn't, but it got me thinking about the pressure plate. It had a lot of dents, or wear marks on the inside of where the springs sit, I was thinking that the wear grooves might hang up the springs, and not allow full movement. I was also a little worried that I put the clutch itself together incorrectly, so I drained the oil and took that apart again, no problems, it was right, and the pressure plate wear spring marks were not worth worrying about, cleaned them up a bit just the same.

At about 11:30 last night while thinking that I might have to get professional help (for the bike) I was standing there thinking, "Must be the f*&%g clutch master cylinder, because it builds no pressure in the system, or very little (I also checked the clutch hose itself, and it was clear too). I realized that the front brake master cylinder has the same sized banjo bolt, so if the clutch line will reach over there, I can check. Well it did reach over there and after quickly bleeding the system I found that using the front brake master cylinder the clutch disengages without a problem. If this is not evidence enough about the K.I.S.S. (keep it simple stupid) principle needing to be applied, I don't know what is. The problem was no, or little pressure being applied to the clutch to disengage it, I should have kept my search for the problem confined to that system before widening my search for possible causes. I would have saved myself a lot of time.

When I went to rebuild the clutch master cylinder I was worried (rightly it turns out) about a bit of pitting on the cylinder wall. The local guy did not seem to think that it would be a problem, wrong! I then took the clutch master cylinder and wrapped some 400 grit emery cloth around a piece of tube and stuck it in the drill, my homemade hone, After a lot of sanding, or honing, the pitting actually got bigger! 12:30, after midnight, time to give up. This morning I went and ordered a new clutch master cylinder, I wonder how much that will cost?

While I was waiting for the clutch parts, I decided to tear the back brakes down, glad I did. there was no, nada, like zip, brake fluid in them, there was also a small chunk of metal jammed in the groove in one of the pads, that is for sure what was causing the "ZZZZZ" sound on occasion. The seals on the brake pistons are history. The pads were soaked with brake fluid, should I replace them? They are in good shape otherwise. The boots were leaking too. In tearing apart the pistons, I found a lot of evidence of water in the fluid, there was kind of light brown growths on the aluminum, indicating the presence of water in the system, this most likely lead to the seals going. The pistons are just fine, some polishing with 1000 grit paper, and good as new, thankfully. While I was at it I ordered the parts for rebuilding the front brake calipers and the pads too, as they are getting a bit lean. I will wait to to the front brake caliper, as they are working fine, and I would
like to ride the darn bike! I also have steel braided lines on order form Dennis Kirk, so I'll do it when they come.

While I was doing all of this I noticed that the seal around the clutch push rod was gone, that is probably why there was so much oil and dirt around that area, and the front sprocket. To replace it I need an pneumatic impact driver to get the front sprocket off. The local guy has offered to do it, but as I have a compressor already, for my wood working stuff, I figure that it is a good excuse to buy one :) . I have also ordered the seal around the drive shaft to the front sprocket, as they are covered by the same retaining plate.

A note to the wise,  change your brake fluid! In the Gixxer the brake fluid was the color of maple syrup. and it was gritty too. I bleed all of the brakes and the clutch has new fluid too, even though it is not working. Compared to the repairs I have done brake fluid is cheap. If your fluid is over two years old, replace it, it is not that hard, maybe a half hour job. Some of you who ride very hard, well most of you I guess, would probably do better to change it every year. Just my opinion, I know from now on I will change it every year!

Hope to see you all on the road one day soon!

BTW, I wanted to send out happy Birthday greeting to My brother Todd!


New Brake fluid is on the left, the old stuff....... well you can figure it out, I think.



September 2 & 3 Update

Well I finally got it all back together, and everything runs just great. The front brakes are still a bit spongy, but I figure to let them sit over night and have another go at it, should stiffen them up. All of the fairings etc are back in place, and the new clutch works great, no problem lifting the front wheel now! I wish I could go for a real ride now, Sunday, but I have to go to a birthday party, oh well. I am sure glad to have this done. I still need to replace two seals, one around the clutch pushrod, and one around the shaft of the front sprocket. I'll get to it next week some time, not critical, just the build up of oil over time is annoying.
Thanks to all who had suggesting and words of encouragement and  or help.



Computer fans for cooling
Something else I have done has generated a lot of e-mail from others wanting details, so here you go. I put a computer fan, about 6" square, by 1" thick on the left side of the oil cooler. I rigged up a switch for it up near the speedo, just under the fairing. On the face of the frame of the fan that comes in contact with the oil cooler I put some peel and stick, foil backed fiberglass insulation. Four long screws with washers and nuts to hold the fan on, and that's it. works great! I don't know how long it will last, but the fans are cheap, so when it goes, I'll replace it. It works so well, I will be putting another one on the right side, when I do that I'll post some more pictures here.

I had to give this idea up, as the fans soon destroyed themselves at speed on the highway. If there was some simple way of locking them out, stopping them from spinning, it would work, but when they spin free, at 180 Km/h they soon wear out the bushings :)

It is still a great idea, but you should use fans from a bike, they would be built to last.



This is a stand I threw together while I've been waiting for Suzuki to send me 
 drive plates for my clutch, (Boneheads).
I know that I could just go out and buy one of these, but I bought the steel for about $5 and spent A Sunday getting reintroduced to my arc welder. Not the prettiest stand, but strong as hell, and the bike is rock solid on the stand. I want to put a front stand on it too, for safe wrenching, but the head tube is blocked by the front brake line divider, I guess I'll have to relocate that.


Mail Me!



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Here is my 4 year old daughter Mizuki showing off her riding technique.

Go see page two